For several years we stayed in Montmartre, right down the street from the Rue des Abbesses. Our building had one of those classic old wooden French spiral staircases. I loved it.
Rue des Abbesses is the central thoroughfare for Montmartre. Even when it is thronged with shoppers, tourists, musicians, market stalls, students and commuters it is a friendly and accessible place to visit. The cars are limited. And though the prices are pricey the vibe is young and energetic .
The Abbesses metro stop has one of those 19th century Art Nouveau station signs with a glass roof and organic-shaped metal struts. It is in a little park ringed by cafes and with a newspaper kiosk in the middle. Overhead the trees create a cool canopy of leaves.
As temporary residents we explored the neighborhood. Each day we walked up to Abbesses for coffee and a newspaper. I would go off sketching and painting and there were always interesting subjects to draw. Then we would try out a new restaurant for lunch.
Montmartre is a neighborhood where all sorts of people live. There are normal stores for the local citizens as well. We frequented the nearby boucheries and boulangeries and epiceries for homemade meals. In the evenings we found a grungy but friendly little bar, Chez Ahmad, that was more user-friendly than the upscale touristy fare. Very happy times.
Montmartre has an incredible history. For all it’s beautiful winding streets and lovely little buildings, it used to be the cheap option when you were looking for a place to live. Lots of artists launched their careers here because of the low-rent housing. These days homes are expensive and tourists arrive in a regular flood.
Several Rue des Abbesses works are featured in my book, “Walking in Paris”. When I look at it I remember the happy days of climbing around Montmartre in the sunshine and coming home to my spiral staircase. When the lockdowns subside, I, along with a lot of you I suspect, will be making a bee-line back to Paris.